We are pleased to show you the latest images of the embroideries that our six tutors will be teaching during the Stratford-Upon-Avon Residential Retreat in March 2020.
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Kate Barlow - Blackwork
With special permission from the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust, Kate will replicate a section from a 17th century coif held within the Trust's historic needlework collection.
The original 17th Century needlework shown here will be studied during the retreat and present in the room throughout Kate's class, which will take place in the Shakespeare Trust Museum itself. Image use by permission of the Shakespeare Trust Collection.
Kate explains: "The original coif was obviously worked by an embroiderer of great skill, and must have been worn by someone of fairly high standing judging by the complexity of the embroidery and the amount of gilt thread used in the piece.
Worked in black silk and gilt metal passing thread on a linen ground, it is decorated lavishly with botanical motifs which include rose hips, roses, pea pods, foxgloves, hazelnuts and wild strawberries. The motifs are filled with delicate counted patterns using fine silk thread and each motif is then outlined in stem stitch using a slightly thicker thread. Further embellishment is added with Ceylon stitch needlelace and spiders web stitches using the gilt passing thread as in the pea pods. The wild strawberries are worked in a corded Brussels needlelace again using the gilt passing thread. The design is brought together by beautiful curling lines of plaited braid stitch worked in more gilt passing thread.
When new, the coif must have made quite an impact as the gilt threads would have sparkled, although considering it’s age the piece is in very good condition."
Using silver gilt metal thread for the Elizabethan Braid Stitch and black silk for the Blackwork, this partly counted thread design will be suitable for finishing into a decoration or brooch. The sampler below shows the blackwork techniques that will be taught during Kate's class.
Sampler of blackwork techniques that will be taught during Kate's class. Kate's design will be a small section of the cap as shown below
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Phillipa Turnbull - Crewel Work, The Glamis Pillowe
Phillipa will teach during the second half of the retreat only. Her design will be a recreation of a 17th century pillowe in the crypt at Glamis Castle, who have given special permission to recreate the design.
This bold, Jacobean design is lightly worked using a wide variety of stitches in soft faded shades of blues, sea greens, with touches of gentle pinks and yellows.
The spacious motifs are on a larger scale than other design featured on this retreat and therefore less challenging and good for poor eyesight.
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Jessica Grimm - Or Nue, Medieval Orphrey
If you choose to join Jessica's class, you "will create a Late Medieval goldwork and silk embroidered orphrey (approx. 20 x 10 cm). The design is made up of an architectural background recreated from an original Dutch orphrey combined with a flower illustration found in the Huth book of hours. This flower element is optional and Jessica has designed her class such that you may include it or not.
"During this class you will learn basic goldwork couching techniques (some counted), how to work with string padding, create or nué, make and applique slips and how to layer goldwork. We will use a wide variety of silks and goldwork threads on 40ct natural linen. And best of all: no plunging of goldwork threads. Guaranteed!"
"The stitches and techniques used in this class are not difficult. But some probably differ a bit from ‘how you were taught’. Others are uncommon or unknown in most modern goldwork embroidery. Some, like the or nué, require you to be a bit artistic. As the counted couching technique requires you to comfortably see the threads of 40ct linen, your (enhanced) eyesight must be up to this."
"Furthermore, the sumptuousness of the project prevents it from being finished in class. With this knowledge upfront, you can relax and enjoy the stitching with luxurious materials. I am confident that I can transfer enough of my skills during class so that you can happily finish your orphrey at home."
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Mandy Ewing - Elizabethan Embroidery
During this retreat, Mandy will be recreating two sections of a rare unfinished Elizabethan Headcloth held in within the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust Collection Collection. Mandy's class will take place in the Shakespeare Trust building where the collection in housed and the original headcloth will be displayed in the room with the students while they stitch for continual reference.
The original 17th Century headcloth. Image use by permission of the Shakespeare Trust Collection.
Mandy will teach a masterclass on Elizabethan Stitches on designs featured in this unfinished headcloth. She has selected two designs to focus on during her class, a detail of a bird and a detail of a branch with acorns, shown below. Materials will be silks on linen, with some metal thread details.
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Nicola Jarvis - Various techniques including Elizabethan Stitches, The Midsummer Pillowe
For this retreat, Nicola has developed an exquisite, delicate and unique design, as she explains:
"Midsummer Pillowe will involve students exploring a collection of enchanting Tudor-style butterflies and moths fluttering across a surface inscribed with script reminiscent of the late sixteenth century."
Nicola will demonstrate a range of stitch techniques popular with Elizabethan and Stuart embroiderers, including Long and Short Shading, Satin Stitch and variations, Couching, Cut Work and Beading. This rich variety of stitches will be worked on a cotton warp satin ground and will create an enticing textural mix of C21st Yarns over-dyed stranded cotton threads, Au Ver a Soie silk threads and metal threads, Miyuki seed beads and couture sequins.
Stitched detail from Midsummer Pillowe
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Jenny Adin Christie
Jenny will be present for the first half of the retreat only and will offer the following two designs in the same class (students may choose one or the other).
The Wordsworth Harp
We are very excited to be offering this unique design again, which was originally developed for the Spring Residential 2018.
This harp-shaped objet d'art is a celebration of our most treasured and essential tool, the needle. You can read the full article about how the Wordsworth Harp was developed.
The Blue Bird Etui
Jenny's alternative choice is the Blue Bird Etui.
"[The wren's] iconic head plumage is worked on a base of deep blue Yorkshire tweed, using pleated Italian rayon tapes and the softest Japanese silk chenille. His back is embellished with fishbone stitch feathers using iridescent blue metalling passing threads. The chest feathers are worked on a base of English wool baize, using layers of tiny blue sequins and interlocking pieces of blue metallic purl. The wings are worked using padded satin stitch and whipped fly stitch in specially-made silk gimp, on a tweed ground. The underwings form the needlecase in buttonhole-edged wool flannel. The tail uses silk shading in pure silk with metallic couching and stretched pearl purl.
The Blue Wren is made on a pre-made body form with solid bronze legs and beak, which contains a tiny cutting blade. He also carries a specially-made sterling silver thread waxer."
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Phillipa Turnbull - The Muncaster Oranges
Phillipa will also offer a one-day master class at the end of the retreat in Long & Short soft shading featuring the Muncaster Oranges design (featured below, far right).
Final Free Choice Day
At the end of the retreat, Nicola, Mandy, Kate and Jessica will offer half-day revision classes which you may choose from. On that day Phillipa will offer a one-day class as described above.
